All the steps to succeed in home hair coloring.
Hair coloring is the number 1 motif encouraging women to make an appointment with a hairdresser. However, 29% of Canadian women prefer to do it themselves in the comfort of their home while saving more and more precious time. To this is added the current situation of confinement which causes all hairdressers to keep their doors closed and to leave only the option of a at home coloring.
Consider basically pushing back:
There are several options to deal with the inconvenience of a delay between visits. When you want to avoid colouring the roots by yourself, one of the best tips to camouflage them is to choose the right hairstyle. You can change your hair separation and orient it slightly diagonally or even in a zig zag using a comb. Adding texture or volume is also a brilliant option, creating loops will also hide the roots very well.
Available for blondes, brunettes, redheads, make-up root covers, mascara, dry shampoo, powder or even spray are all daily tricks that will give you satisfaction between two colorations!
It is important to point out that the Bradörf & Origa team does not encourage the use of coloring products at home. The truth is, being a hairdresser is a real job, education and the technical knowledge of a professional count for much of the success in coloring. A professional can bring his/her expertise in the analysis and provide advice according to the hair type and the desire of the customer, a good hairdresser is able to perform miracles with hair, so privilege taking advice from him/her.
Blog on numbering:
To better understand the language of coloring, we invite you to consult our blog on the numbering of professional coloring tubes.
The secret of a coloring that gives complexion lies in the reflection you have chosen. Now, between the gold, the iridescent and the ash, it is easy to get lost. If you prefer gold jewellery, the colours of gold, caramel or copper should suit you. On the other hand, if silver jewellery suits you better, it is better to look at the more neutral, cold (purplish), beige or ashy shades. But to learn more, check out our blog.
Pharmacy hair colours:
A pharmacy coloring, behind its alluring looks, hides certain risks and usually offers approximate results if not disastrous.
- The health condition of your hair
- Natural colour
- Coloured hair
- The % of mature hair (white)...
As a rule, the formulation is calibrated upwards, which has the effect of damaging the hair fiber. The formulation of a pharmacy coloring will be the same, no matter who buys it. Any hairdresser knows that it is not possible to get the same color result on different hair types without adjusting the formulation, application and pause time. Then promising the result that is on the picture on a pharmacy kit is a lie.
Professional coloring, on the other hand, requires a correct formulation of the shades and a choice of the appropriate peroxide according to the desired intensity of coloring, coverage or lightening required.
The formula will be tailor-made depending on your hair.
LEAD IN THE HEAD
Beware, too many cheap or so-called natural henna type color, contain metal salts. When the hair accumulates these metals, it becomes more and more dark, rough and likely to react negatively to any other chemical treatment. The consequences are irreversible and not compatible with professional products.
Permanent or semi-permanent coloring?Semi-permanent coloring is the ideal option for first time coloring, for fine or fragile hair as well as to maintain an already existing color. However the semi-permanent coloring is not suitable to cover mature hair (white) at more than 20%, because it can darken and could lighten the natural hair tone only.
On the other hand, the permanent coloring offers a long-lasting hold, it can cover mature hair (white, gray) up to 100% (if you respect the rule of white hair) and can lighten the natural hair depending on the strength of hydrogen peroxide (oxidant), it alters hair pigments permanently and can lighten up to 4 tones on natural hair.
These colorations require the oxidant to open the scales of the hair to let the color penetrate inside it. The color of the hair is thus changed definitively. In other words, there will be a root effect with regrowth, but keep in mind that coloring does not lighten a color.
Preliminary steps before ordering your products
To be clear, doing your coloring at home should consist only of doing maintenance alterations, but nothing complicated!
It is necessary to concentrate on the essential, the coloring of natural or mature hair regrowths (white), and not to make a complete coloring change. We recommend choosing a shade as close as possible to your current colour and maximum 2 shades darker or lighter than your natural colour. For any changes we advise you wait for the next visit to your hairdresser.
As much as possible, avoid coloring damaged hair, as well as lengths. We advise against the use of 30 or 40 volume at home, as well as all discoloration processes. Respect the recommended break times and never try to fix your mistakes on your own. Finally, it is very important to adapt your care for the maintenance of your color.
Step 1. Contact a professional.
Even if we think we know how to use this type of product, a mistake could happen, so it is better to contact a professional and follow his/her recommendations.
Step 2. Capillary analysis.
As a first step, you must ensure that your scalp and hair are healthy enough to receive a coloring. Then confirm with a professional or evaluate precisely your natural level and your percentage of white hair, this information is the essential starting point to hope to continue the process.
Rule of white hair:
The white hair coverage rule applies from a percentage of 25% and requires special attention. Being harder to color than traditional hair, 3 rules are required!
2. Observe a minimum of 35 minutes of break time.
3. Always use a natural shade equivalent to the % of mature hair.
EX: Desired colour 7/43 = Medium/copper golden blond
25% mature hair = ¼ natural grade 7/0 + ¾ of desired grade 7/43
50% mature hair = ½ natural grade 7/0 + ½ of desired grade 7/43
75% or more = ¾ natural grade 7/0 + ¼ of desired grade 7/43
1. Healthy hair:
2. Healthy scalp:
3. Natural level:
4. % of mature hair:
5. Colour level and reflection:
Step 3. Select the ideal colour number.
First, follow the recommendations of a professional. Whether you choose a permanent color, or a semi-permanent color, you must choose a shade (color number).
6/ Tube number desired: _/__ (Ex: 5/03)
Step 4. Select the right oxidant
Which oxidant to use for oxidation staining. The oxidant is chosen according to the starting level and the desired color level. Depending on the expected result, the oxidant used will be different, make sure to respect the oxidant brand corresponding to the tube brand.
• Activator for semi permanent: Contains between 1.9% and 4% hydrogen peroxide. It is used when one wants to make a deposit on the hair to maintain a color or color on the same height of tone.
25 min break time
• 10 volume oxidant: contains 3% hydrogen peroxide. It is used when one wishes to create a permanent deposit and darken the hair or make a coloring on the same height of tone, it has no real lightening power. It can cover less than 25% of mature hair (white).
30 min break time
• 20 volume oxidant: contains 6% oxygenated water. It is used when you want to cover mature hair (white up to 100%). It is also used when you want to lighten a natural base up to 2 tones.
35 min break time
• 30 and 40 volume oxidant: contains 9% and 12% hydrogen peroxide. Strongly unadvised at home.
Step 5. Equip yourself like a pro (avoid all metal equipment)
• Number of tubes (provide more)
- - 1 minimum tube / short hair of normal density or regrowth
- 2 minimum tubes / neck hair, low to normal density or regrowth of thick hair
• Peroxide (predict the right amount based on ratio)
• Pair of gloves
• Colouring Cape
• Barrier cream
• Bowl(s) or applicator bottle(s)
• Tail comb
• 4 separator clips
Step 6. Do a prior allergy test.
A sensitivity test is mandatory and must be done every time a new product is used, to avoid an allergic reaction of our skin. Take a small amount of the mixture (colouring and peroxide) and apply it to the skin (hollow of the arm, etc.) under a plaster for 24 to 48 hours and observe.
Take the opportunity to make a strand of hair test.
Most people neglect this step, but testing on a strand of hair will give you an accurate idea of the final color. Thus, there will be no surprises and you can if necessary recommend the right nuance and above all you will have avoided an unfortunate situation.
The stages on the day of colouring
Step 2. Protect yourself and your environment.
Use old clothes and use a colouring cape, cover the floor, chair and table with plastic as protection. Apply a protective cream around the face (forehead, temples, ears, behind ears, neck), so as not to be stained by the coloring (especially dark colors from level 6 dark blond to level 1 black), put on a pair of gloves.
Step 3. Prepare your hair.
By brushing it with a detangling brush with wild boar hair. To obtain a uniform color and ensure a precise and sufficient application, be sure to divide your hair into equal sections before starting. Carry out cross-separations, a first separation from the middle of the forehead to the neck and a second from one ear to the other, 4 separating clamps will help to attach each of the 4 sections obtained.
Step 4. Make the mixtureThe staining tubes are indicated by a marking to facilitate the dosage.
The most classic dosages are:
- 1:1 ratio = 50 ml staining + 50 ml oxidant
- 1:1,5 of ratio = 50 ml of colouring + 75 ml of oxidant
- 1:2 ratio = 50 ml colouring + 100 ml oxidant
First extract the correct amount of cream from the tube, pre-mix the cream, then gradually add the amount of oxidant
Step 5. The application
It is better to use the brush as an applicator tool, it will allow a more precise application, however the applicator bottles are very practical. In any case it is recommended that each new section (about 1 cm), lets the previous color deposit appear, so you will ensure a uniform deposit and therefore an equal result. If you are pushing your regrowth (deposition on the same level or hiding white hair), start with the forward sections, but if you need to lighten 1 to 2 levels, start with the back.